My job as a salestrader gives me
somewhat of a "roadwarrior" status...My clients are scattered 
across the country and Canada, and this affords me a fascinating glimpse into the folkways in
each of their regions.  A subset of this is how immigrants, Italians in this particular case study, 
brought their traditions and foods to this country and adapted them to the location...and then 
they evolved into the foods that are served in those regions today.  Case in point, St. Louis, Missouri.
The building of this Nation brought scores of Italian (and many other) Immigrants searching  for a 
better life and work.  The settlers in St. Louis came primarily from Northern Italy and Sicily.  These
two parts of Italy at the turn of the century could not have been more different, in every way.  Climate,
even the language was different, the people had a mistrust for each other, as is the case in 
just about every culture sharing a government.  Downtown St.Louis was once its' Little Italy, and 
another one sprung up in the Hill Section   (http://www.hill2000.org/).  The area is chock full of 
Italian American residents, shops, restaurants, churches.  
    
    
    

     When I'm visiting clients in St. Louis I always stop in to a quintessential St.Louis Style Italian
American Restaurant.. Charlie Gittos' Pasta House Downtown, perhaps a vestige of the former
downtown Little Italy. It reeks of old school Italian-American restaurant.  Trendy Tuscan grills, panini
bars, gelato-ramas, if you're looking for that type of experience or  meal, go elsewhere.  This is a 1900's
mosaic tile floor, lots of wood and stained glass, urban neighborhood joint that those of us who
grew up in NYC and possibly elsewhere are familiar with.  Picture the immigrant Mamma with a
floor length apron on with her handlebar mustached husband next to her.  This is that place.  Charlie
Gitto has two locations, this one (http://www.charliegittosdowntown.com/) and Charlie Gittos' on the Hill
(http://www.charliegittos.com/).  I love the ambience and old feel of the Pasta House location downtown.
Think of the scene where Michael Corleone is having dinner before he whacks the cop.  No dead
bodies here, just good St.Louis Style Italian-American food. 

     Ok, I've mentioned the term St.Louis Style Italian-American food.  What is that all about?   It is part of
the regional adaptations, so no hate mail from those who think Italian food only comes from Italy
or New York City.  Open your mind, I'm not taking you to the Olive Garden here...  The Sicilian influence
is shown in the darker, sweeter tomato sauces, perhaps a mimickry of the sauces made in Sicily
with a highly concentrated tomato paste.  Meat sauce is king, not a tradtional bolognese sauce, but
maybe the influence of being in the MidWest where meat is in abundance.  Meat ravioli, a mainstay
of the Ligurian-Genoese region of Italy, made with veal, root vegetable, parmigiano cheese.  Breaded
anything, a shared food preparation of both Northern and Southern Italy.   Got it now?

    
     Here is Charlie Gitto's take on Veal Parmigiana...thinly sliced veal, breaded and
fried, with a tomato sauce, over spaghettini lightly seasoned with good Olive oil, and
fresh parsley.  The St.Louis style comes in with the sauce, it is a beefy meat and
tomato sauce, not a Marinara.  The cheese melted on top is not Mozzarella, but a
St.Louis Italian staple, Provel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provel_cheese) which is
a processed American made (Midwestern) cheese containing American, Swiss and
Provolone.  It is what makes a St.Louis pizza, St. Louis, and it is showered on
just about everything.  I'm not a fan of it on the pizza, or on some other dishes, and
this veal would be even better is it was made with mozzarella, but...then it would
be like every other veal parmigiano around.  The parts of this dish are so well made
and taste so good, that the Provel doesn't make me want to flip my dining table over.

Next, comes the salad, which if I were in a high end restaurant, would call it over-
dressed.  But in this spot, a this type of a restaurant, it is  fresh, flavorful, ICE COLD,
lots of Parmigiano, vinegar, and oil, romaine (fancy!!), small strips of vinegar peppers,
lots of red onion, salt, pepper.  Oh, some artichoke hearts in it too. 


Here we have one of St.Louis' most popular regional foods, the
TOASTED RAVIOLI.  Not really toasted, but fried.  Always a meat ravioli,
never a cheese one.  Dusted with Parmigiano, not Romano.  You can get this
dish anywhere in the city of St.Louis, but Charlie Gitto's have won my taste
test...you can taste the beef and veal, carrots, onion, parmigiano, all in the
ravioli.  The pasta is just right, not thick and gummy, or greasy, the breading
nicely seasoned.  I'm told that they may be supplied by Mama Toscano's of
St.Louis ( http://www.mamatoscano.com/    .  They are a great holiday
appetizer to serve...here's my take on them:

ST.LOUIS STYLE TOASTED RAVIOLI

50 medium size meat ravioli, cooked al dente, drained, cooled, let them dry.
coat them in sifted flour, then in a bath of fresh chopped parsley, beaten
eggs (maybe 2), a little milk....then coat them in Italian seasoned bread
crumbs that you have added 1/2 cup parmigiano to.  Place them on a large
tray and let them dry for about 1/2 hour in a cool spot.  Heat 3/4 inches of
olive oil in a heavy skillet or pot.  Test one ravioli, it should sizzle and float
on the top, turn it after about 1 minute, cook for another minute or so, remove
with a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towels.  It should be crisp on the
outside, and moist and flavorful on the inside.  If you are satisfied with it, start
frying the ravioli in batches, don't OVERLOAD the pan, that causes massive
temperature loss, bubbling over, possible burning, a general mess.  If you are
not serving immediately, leave them at room temp, and lightly "toast " them in
the oven at 350 degrees for 5 minutes of so and serve...dust them with
Parmigiano Reggiano, and a side of your favorite marinara...

    The windows of Charlie Gitto's Pasta House Downtown are decorated for
Christmas, with a Nativity Scene, lots of colored lights, a village made out of
Macaroni covered houses, Christmas music...infact, Dean Martin was singing
Blue Christmas while I was eating.  Does it get any better?  Certainly  it is not a
Blue Christmas with good food in a good place.