In true dramatic and sweepingly emotional style, the American version of  Italy's massive Italian food
emporium, EATALY opened yesterday to large crowds at 4:00pm.  I met a friend there around 5:45pm for our
survey of the space, full of produce, meats, cheese, groceries, books, kitchen and table ware, salumi, seafood,
pasta and breads...did I leave anything out?  oh yes, the wines...and the gelato and pastries, and ...the CAFFE'!!
Let's get the criticisms out of the way first shall we?  I think there may be too much in the 50000 square foot
space that causes some confusion, and I don't mean the kind that is inevitable on the first day.  The dining
spaces flow into or collide with the areas that should be a  more open for customer traffic.  While eating we
watched a bin of shopping baskets that were on the floor trip at least 10 people.  But maybe some of this chaos
is precisely what Bastianich-Batali-Bastianich are building here...I've been to Italy plenty of times to know that
Americans do well with lines and crowd organization. Europeans do not adhere to these rules, life is too short
and must be lived. La Dolce Vita.  Ok, then EATALY does succeed.  My only other dissapointment was, and this
may be my being raised in an Italian-American home in NYC...I was looking for more products which are totally
unobtainable in America from Italy...like Scampi...O Mario...can you please get David Pasternack to order some
of those Adriatic morsels that I would lose a lung for??
So, to be completely fair to their concept, I need to go do a long second visit and maybe I will find more of what
I can't find here now.  Most of what I saw, was of the highest quality, but I  could get most of the products, in
stores with smaller inventories  now...Aristinal bronze cut pastas, Recca Anchovies, San Marzanos, good
bread, spices, these are items that all my local Salumeria carry...how fortunate am I living in this area.  I guess
the concept is to put lots and lots of these products, all from Italy, along with the best of American meats and
produce and Seafood together and give you lots of dining options and, like a Fellini movie, turn it into Italian
Cinema. A lavish and surreal production celebrating our primal urge, to eat, to eat well, to eat Italian.  
A highlight  of the evening, speaking with the gracious and lovely Lidia Mattichio Bastianich...my Italian cook
idol..., meeting her son Joe, and meeting Chef Mario Batali.
A bonus was meeting Fred Plotkin, Italian food writer and
maven of all things Italian, including Opera..I have treasured a book he wrote, ITALY FOR THE GOURMET TRAVELER
which I bought over 20 years ago and have used on all my trips to Italy..It literally is falling apart.  BTW, Mr. Plotkin tells
me today that the new edtion is currently out for all of you who are traveling over there...you must get the book.  I'm
standing with Chef Batali on his grand opening day, taking pictures with him.  A foodie dream?  Absolutely.
  So pinch me again...second time in 2 months that
I have gotten photographed with Lidia, and this time, with her son too.  Good stuff!!



The restaurant/food court is pretty much in the center of the space, an axis around which the rest of the
Italian food theater revolves.  You have choices, we chose to eat at the fish restaurant.  You find the host,
give you name, and when there is a table for you, down you go to your seats.  The idea is no different from
your local mall food court and I guess, even though a triumverate of Italian food experts is directing this
production, I couldn't help but not to think that the meal would be just....o.k.  Like good Italian Cinema,
SOPRESSO!! surprise!  The seafood we ordered( three entrees, a steamed Ligurian seafood in brodo,
a Fritto Misto in Ligurian style, and a Spiedini di Pesce) were one better than the next...and this on opening
night...Fresh, briny, succulent, perfectly cooked...just a great meal. 



The standout was the Spiedini...and you can try this at home...remember, Italian food is not always a multi-
ingredient affair...thread onto skewers, alternating pieces of lemon, calamari and large peeled shrimp.  Brush
with good olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt and grill for five minutes on each side, or less, just until the shrimp
have started to curl and turn pink on both sides and the calamari has browned.  Serve over a baby green
and shaved fennel salad, give a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of extra virgin, and a dusting of chile pepper flakes
and sea salt...see...now you're cooking like Lidia and Mario!!  Amazing dish, just careful not to overcook or salt.

And so I must leave this palace of Italian delights, raise a glass of Chinotto and wish EATALY
well, Cin Cin, Cent'Anni...and I will be looking forward to my next visit.
  To see this mozzarellaio at work go to EATALY,
200 Fifth Ave, between 23d & 24th Sts in NYC...the beer garden on the roof will be opening a little later in
the month.