RAGU' ALLA BOLOGNESE, THE MEAT SAUCE OF BOLOGNA
Rainy, raw, grey...a Fall day in November..a cook's mind turns to things like braising, and simmering, and
baking or roasting. I was in the mood for macaroni so I thought for tonight's dinner I would fuse the food
mood with the craving. Pasta Bolognese just seemed to fit that bill. A sauce which has a definitive and
OFFICIAL recipe, and a sauce which is created in similiar but different ways all over the world. It is a standard
on most Italian restaurant menus worldwide, from Topeka, Ks. to Osaka Japan, from Oslo Norway to
Santiago, Chile. It's a kids favorite choice on many menus as well..who doesn't like pasta with a meaty
tomato sauce..? If you answered yes, click out of this post and find yourself some other entertainment for
now because I made a Bolognese Sauce tonight pretty much holding onto the rules set forth by the Accademia
Italiana della Cucina, Bologna Chapter, back in 1982. After much thought, this group of foodies decided to
preserve Ragu' alla Bolognese in it's original and most perfect version. Now there will be those of you who
will be wagging your heads saying...why is that in there? or why is he not adding this or that, that's not how
I make it! This blogpost is intended to expound the virtues of the "real" Bolognese..so before you crack me
in the head with your All Clad, you can still make it the way you like, but just once, make it like it's supposed
to be made. Just once. And you'll make it this way again.
Most versions of Bolognese sauce are like the "meat" sauce my Mom made, very good, delicious and
great on pasta..ground beef or pork, or both sauteed up with onions, basil, black pepper, salt, wine, then
the tomatoes added and it was cooked until it resembled an Italian Sloppy Joe. Like I said, delicious.
According to the Accademia it must contain Chopped minced Beef, Pancetta, onion, milk, tomato paste,
stock, wine,carrots, celery, and a spoonful of heavy cream at the end.
Here's a view of the City of Bologna, La Grassa, so named "The Fat one" because of its' cuisines emphasis on meats, cheeses and fresh pastas. It's where the Tortellini
was invented, with it's filling of ground veal, parmigiano and nutmeg. Mortadella, the real Bologna comes from
here as well. So it is fitting that a sauce which is named after the city is rich with meats and dairy product.
I paired this up with Pappardelle, any egg pasta is perfect for this sauce. Tagliatelle would work well also. The
most common pairing worldwide though is its' pairing with Spaghetti.
The pasta brand I used is an Artisinal pasta (Pasta Artiginali) from Fara S.Martino in the Abbruzzi, Italy.
It is Cav. Giuseppe Cocco (http://www.pastacocco.com/index2.htm) and the dried egg pasta comes in
8.8 oz boxes, only 5-7 minutes cooking time. Toss the pasta with 2 tbs. of unsalted butter, a good grinding
of black pepper, and 1/8 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Then sauce with about 3 ladles of the
Ragu'..no more..as with all pasta dishes in Italy, the sauce is secondary to the pasta..having said that..
add as much as you like, I will not dictate how you like something, but I will guide you on what is considered
the proper way a dish is to be prepared and eaten.
For the sauce: finely dice 2 celery stalks, 2 peeled carrots, and 1 large onion, 1/2 lb. of pancetta, and
3/4 lb. skirt steak or chuck steak. In a large heavy bottomed pot, heat 3 tbs of good Olive Oil, then add the
chopped steak and pancetta. Let this saute' for about 5 -8 minutes stirring frequently. Now add the carrots,
celery, and onion. Let this saute together for about 15 minutes, then add 1 cup of white wine, salt, mix. Then
add 1 cup of stock and let this come to a boil, add 1/2 can of tomato paste and stir. Let this simmer on
low. Over the course of the next 2 hours, add 1 1/2 cups of milk in small batches. Why? Because the
Accademia said so. Let this simmer for a total of no less than 3 hours, stirring frequently. When you've
reached that point and it's sufficiently thickened..add 2 tbs. of heavy cream. Then dress the pasta you
have prepared with the three ladles..Shower it with lots of shaved Parmigiano and cracked black pepper.
This is a very earthy sauce made this way, the garden freshness of the vegetables and the long
simmered meat...very different in many ways from what we are used to thinking of as a Bolognese
Sauce...and with the leftover sauce, I may just HAVE to turn that into a Lasagne Bolognese with
Spinach and Bechamel over the weekend..
When I was in Bologna( a long time ago, with a less educated palate) I couldn't figure out what was
so different about my Bolognese and the real one...now we all know..try it for yourself.


Exclente! I like to cook my proteins with milk, it just DOES something chemically to the meat, I can't put my finger on! In Australia, we shorten everything so this dish becomes simply: spag bol! Deee lish!
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Wow this sounds so good! Can't wait to try it! LOVE this website! Thanks for bringing back the feeling of love from my own familigia.
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As a Brit, we call it Spag Bol too . . . and I use the sauce to make a version of Shepherds Pie too . . . rich meat sauce with mashed potato . . . yum. I do like this way of cooking the meat with milk, it really does seem to make the sauce taste more "meaty". Although I do still cook a less traditional version . . . I can't break away from my love of tomatoes!
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