'TORNA SURRIENTO...RETURN TO SORRENTO, FOR GEMELLI



   Torna Surriento...a Napoletana song which is a classic in the Italian-American playist.  Sung by
all the "greats" like Pavarotti, and old school Mario Lanza.  It's English translation is Return to Sorrento,
a city by Naples, further down the coast on the way to eh Amalfi Coast. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEut14eNSxQ...  This you tube clip is of  Mario Lanza singing the song
way back in the 50's I guess.  It's a sad song, longing to go back to where the singer came from, going
back to a place of familiarity, a place of comfort and love..AND...(did you think I was getting too senti-
mental??) a place of some of the most familiar Italian foods that are known throughout the world.
That ubiquitous marriage of tomato, pasta and mozzarella..all of Campania celebrates it.  In Sorrento
pastas are baked with a tomato sauce, dressed with pecorino, studded with Mozzarella della Bufala,
and infused with basil.  Baked Ziti you say?  Well, sometimes ricotta is added...and yes, it's a basic
Pasta al Forno recipe.  A baked pasta that means.  In Sorrento, the most popular dish of this type,
which is always known as "Alla Sorrentina", is the Gnocchi alla Sorrentina.  In the style of Sorrento,
simple, tomato, basil, pecorino and mozzarella.  Please don't confuse this with Mike "the Situation"
Sorrentino from the Jersey Shore...this is a very tasty dish, without a six-pack.Back in the olden days (August of 1986)
I enjoyed 3 days at the Parco dei Principi Hotel, high on a cliff overlooking the Bay of Sorrento and
with views of the Bay of Naples and Mt.Vesuvius (San Marzano land).  My wife and I enjoyed countless
(ok, we were only there 3 days, so, maybe countless is a stretch) delicious meals there, very similiar
to my families and most Italian-American's versions of Italian food.  It was plentiful and comfortable,
fresh, and delicious.  Even a rice cake would taste good if you were looking at that view!  Anyway,
for dinner tonight I made a Gemelli alla Sorrentina..I had a nice piece of fresh mozzarella, some
prosciutto...and wanted something relatively easy.  Let me share this comforting dish with you.
In a saucepan, add 2 tbs. of olive oil, heat gently, then add 1/4 lb. chopped prosciutto.  Let this sizzle
up for about 5 minutes then add one medium onion, diced.  Stir and let this cook for about 10 minutes
slowly so the onions gently soften, and the prosciutto doesn't get too crisp.  This allows all the salty
and porky seasoning from the prosciutto to render out and infuse with the onion.  Give it a good grinding
of black pepper.


Check out the difference...everything should melt down..this does many things for your sauce..it adds
depth of flavor, sweetness to balance the tomato's acid and the prosciutto's salt.  Stir and add one
28oz can of San Marzanos with their juice..break the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon, mix
well, then add 1 can of Imported Italian tomato paste.  Chances are, you will be usingtomatoes that are
grown and canned within a 30 mile radius from where Sorrento is.  Cheaper than flying there, no??
Add only a pinch of salt, and a pinch of sugar.  Tear 2 basil leaves into the sauce and let it simmer for
45 minutes.  While this is simmering, make a lb. of Gemelli (or whatever your favorite pasta is, but
stick to things like Gemelli, Ziti, Penne Rigate) according to the package instructions.  Buy a fresh
piece of Mozzarella and cut it into small cubes.

Time to assemble.. Drain the pasta.  In a baking pan, add a few ladles ( or a'guppina, which is
the Napoletana dialect for ladle, and my personal preferred term) of sauce, then add the pasta.
Add 1/2 cup grated pecorino, a few grindings of black pepper, 4 torn basil leaves and 3/4 of
the mozzarella.  Mix well.  Add 2 more ladles of sauce, then mix together gently.
  Add 3 tbs more of
grated pecorino. then add some sauce and top with the remaining mozzarella.  Bake in a 375 degree
preheated oven ( don't I always forget to tell you that earlier??, sorry, next time I'll remember). Cook for
25 minutes, a little extra if you want the cheese on top to brown.  Each forkfull should reward you with
some of that creamy and stringy melted mozzarella.  This is what Sorrentina is all about. 

Serves 5-6.

 

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Comments

  • 5/25/2011 10:16 AM kitchenvoyage wrote:
    In Argentina is very popular a dish call Sorrentinos, in fact is a ravioli pasta with ricotta. I´ve been in sorrento and in a little restaurant i had Pasta e Fagoli, very similar preparation but with cannelini beans
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