Spaghetti alla Gricia...ever hear of it? I'm not the first blogger to post a story about it, and I
will not be the last.  It, like it's fraternal twin, Pasta all'Amatriciana are two of my favorite
pastas.  Both are stellar examples of the Lazio kitchen, Lazio being the region of Italy where
they originated.  The capitol of Lazio is Rome, so..these dishes are well known in Roman
Cuisine.  Their allure, besides the sharpness of the pecorino against the pasta is the cured
pork cuts which are used to make them.  That cut is known as GUANCIALE. This piece
of pork love is cut from the jowl.  Then rubbed with herbs and black pepper, similiar, yet
differently than Pancetta(the unsmoked cured Italian bacon from the pork belly). In many
recipes pancetta is used as a substitute for Guanciale since it was virtually unheard of or un-
obtainable in the United States.  The food explosion of the last 20 years has propelled many
new American artisinal salumi and cured meat producers (Fra Mani, La Quercia, Arman-
dino's Salumi, among many others) to begin to produce fine cured pork jowls in the Italian
Style.  Here's one substitution that you can't do..I found American pork jowl cured in the
tradtional U.S. (not the Italian) method and used it in an Amatriciana recipe.  Disaster.
The meat did not take on the same crisp texture, like well cooked bacon does, after it was
rendered.  Instead it stayed chewy and hard on the edges.  Serves me right.  There are no
substitutions for the real thing.  The difference between Alla Gricia and All'Amatriciana is
simply the addition of tomato in the former.
One side of the Guanciale shows some meat, and the other is pure pork fat. (Ah...
Lardo!!!)  A little culinary history/
legend here, Gricia was said to have originated in the small village of Grisciano in Lazio.  It
was a way of seasoning dried pasta and adding some protein for flavor and sustenance along
with a heavy dosage of the local Pecorino Romano.  Along the way the recipe has picked up
the addition of either garlic or more often diced onion.  Purist Alert: it's only really Gricia when
it's made with a touch of olive oil, the Guanciale, pasta, black pepper and pecorino.  I swear I
am not turning into the queen of recipe ingredient substitution, Rachael Ray, but...if you love a
deep and strong pork flavor, the original recipe is just about one of the best simple treats
ever.  If you find pronounced gamey pork flavor too strong for you, then I suggest you saute'
one medium diced onion into the rendered guanciale and oil.  Be forewarned though that if you
call is Gricia, you will be serverely rebuked!  You will then have a Gricia style pasta with onions.
(You can only call is Champagne if it's from Champagne, France, right??, same thing, work with
me here).  Here's the way to make a proper Spaghetti alla Gricia.  Slice a 3 inch piece of
Guanciale into thin strips.  Make sure you are using a sharp knife. 


In a large heavy pan heat 2 tbs. of Extra Virgin Olive Oil to medium.  Cut the strips of Guanciale
into 1/2 inch pieces and add to the oil.  Let this render down for at least 20 minutes on medium.
Be very careful not to let it get too hot or you will burn the Guanciale before it renders..be
patient, the pieces of Guanciale will be like little pork chips...salty, herby, peppery...


Cook according to the package directions 1 lb of Spaghetti or Bucatini in abundantly
salted water until Al Dente.  Drain and then add it to the pan of guanciale tossing well
to coat all the spaghetti.  Now sprinkle in 1/2 cup of grated Pecorino Romano and 1
tsp of freshly ground black pepper.  Toss well and serve.  As will all pasta dishes,
there should be no pools of sauce swimming on the bottom of the plate, especially in
the oil based sauces.
That's it, no herb garnish, no extraneous ingredients..just you, the Spaghetti and maybe a
little more grated Pecorino and all that porky goodness.  Eat like a Roman!\

Call your local or regional Italian Specialty Stores or Salumerie.  They may carry this
treasure from the pig...